Alexander Wang wants to design sportswear

Fashion
  • Alexander Wang with model Erin Wasson. Getty Images

Designer Alexander Wang wants to design more sportswear.

The 30-year-old fashion designer, who recently unveiled his new active wear-inspired collection for high street label H&M, has revealed he is keen to continue his foray into sportswear and wants to make the styles a more permanent feature in his collections, reported Vogue.

“Approaching active wear was exciting for me as I’ve always wanted to do it, but having that access to the resources – the factories and the garment mills – was a completely different process to what I usually do,” Wang said. “It’s a whole new skill set. You have to do your due diligence and testing, but it is something that I have so much passion and love for, that I’d love to have a future opportunity to do something like this that is more permanent.”

Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood accused of plagiarism

Fashion
  • Getty Images

Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood has been accused of plagiarism in her self-titled biography which was released earlier this week.

According to the author of The Look: Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion, Paul Gorman, the Birt-born designer has copied numerous passages almost verbatim from the work in her self-titled biography which was released last week, counting 29 instances of plagiarism altogether, reported The Independent.

The book was written in collaboration with historian and biographer Ian Kelly and is also said to include both grammatical and factual errors, including false claims the fashion legend thought up the idea and title for punk rockers, the Sex Pistols’ track Sons of Anarchy.

Both the 73-year-old fashion designer and the publishers Pan MacMillan are yet to respond to the accusations surrounding the work through which Ian claimed he was pleased to have finally told the ‘truth’ about the ‘huge-hearted’ designer.

The biography follows the life of the fashion legend from her upbringing in rural Derbyshire, her career and her relationships with her husband and business partner Malcolm McLaren, as well as her second marriage to her former student Andreas Kronthal.

The work also features heartfelt letters from Vivienne’s close friends – which throughout her life have included Pamela Anderson, Prince Charles, human rights campaigner Shami Chakrabati, models Naomi Campbell and Jerry Hall, Bob Geldof and Julian Assange

Root cover-ups: Beauty Lab

Fashion

Root cover-ups: Beauty Lab

Root cover-ups: Beauty Lab

The latest product craze? DIY root cover-up. For as celebrity colourist Josh Wood explains: “When it comes to down to changing your hair colour, nine out of 10 times, it’s just about covering grey. I have clients who simply wouldn’t be able to go to work with grey roots coming through. A superstar singer, a city lawyer – either way, they need to see me every 10 days. And not everyone has time for that!” Much more convenient are the handbag-sized root cover-ups flooding the market. Here we road-test the new on-the-go colour tools.

Color Wow root cover up, £28.50; colorwowhair.com
Like the Kate Bush same-named song, this is already a wondrous classic. Use the narrow brush to define your eyebrows and the thicker one to dab away those pesky greys in your mane. Soft, natural-looking colour that you can build on through several washes, and available in 6 shades, this remains the product to beat. If it were permanent it would be a 10. 9/10

Charles Worthington Instant Root Concealer, £9.99; boots.com
Charles Worthington is a lovely man and a very successful hairdresser. This product, however, is neither. What’s needed for this high sensitive job is a highly sensitive tool with precision aim. This was like being blasted with a mud cannon, with the predictable effect. My hair looked cloggy – who knew that was even possible? – and felt worse. 1/10

Alterna 2-minute Root Touch-up, £24.95; lookfantastic.com
No dramatic change, but this product does take the edge off any dark roots, which makes it a good tool to eke out time between salon appointments. It does however take two washes to get rid of the tacky cream after application. 6/10

Bumble and Bumble Hair Powder, £28.00; bumbleandbumble.co.uk
A little goes a long way, and this works like a combination of a dry shampoo and a strong hairspray. The colour deposit covered up my roots subtly but effectively, but the aerosol meant one had to aim accurately. 7/10

Giorgio Armani Eye and Brow Maestro, £26.50; armanibeauty.co.uk
Once I’d got the hang of this – the trick is to mix it with enough water – I loved the portability of this little pot, which can also be used on eyebrows and eye-lids. A true multi-tasker and very natural-looking. 8/10

Josh Wood Blending Wand, £12.50; marksandspencer.com
This product is a slightly terrifying dark sludgy brown when you pump it out, and it felt a bit like putting make-up in my hair, but the colour evened out when I applied it and looked good. The neat applicator brush made for very easy application too. 8/10

15 secret go-to brands loved by fashion insiders

Fashion

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Photo: Freda

It may sound like a back-handed compliment to describe the labels below as “under the radar”. A number of them have deliberately adopted a low-key presence because they believe that not every woman wants to be wearing the ubiquitous “must-have” that’s advertised everywhere.

Even if you’re someone who likes the reassurance of shopping with established names, there are plenty of reasons for investigating our selection here, not least their size and service.

You’re unlikely to spot your favourite item from them on dozens of other women – yet. None of the companies here have the clout to promote their designs endlessly. We think that’s a good thing. In an era where big brands seem to dominate, here are 15 reasons to take heart.

FREDA (main picture)

The low-down: Matches Fashion’s own brand, which is the perfect complement to the store’s designer edit.
What makes this different from the rest? The finely tuned range of everyday wearable pieces, such as shearling biker jackets and double-breasted coats, nod to winter’s trends but in a more muted way.
What’s the damage? Linen tees £65, knits £275, coats £695 and the sheepskin jacket, £1,200.
What you should know? The stand-out piece this year is undoubtedly the cobalt-blue trapeze coat.
Bottom line: The pit stop for sophisticated women on-the-go.
Matchesfashion.com

IRIS AND INK

The low-down: The in-house label of Net-a-Porter’s outlet store, the Outnet.
What makes this different from the rest? Launched two years ago, it specialises in making the season’s key pieces wearable. Cable-knits are cropped to work with this year’s high waists; slouchy leather trousers come perfectly unadorned and its blouses kick out at the waist to dress up jeans.
What’s the damage? Blouses £115, cable-knits are £255 while the slouchy leather trousers are a competitive £320.
What you should know? Its thick silk blouses are ideal for the office and great quality for the price point.
Bottom line: For fashionable girls who want to tick off the trends but can’t quite afford NAP’s prices.
TheOutnet.com

GOAT

Blue dress £495 , red dress, £420 , navy jacket, £595

The low-down: Looking for dresses with sleeves? Head to Goat.
What makes this different from the rest? The British brand has made a name for itself crafting easy-to-wear, simply cut dresses, blouses and coats that offer a timeless appeal for a woman of any age.
What’s the damage? Its collarless coat is £595 and its wool shift dress £495 – not cheap if you are buying the whole outfit, but good quality.
What you should know? Its first store is due to open on Regent Street this month.
Bottom line: A no brainer for event or work dressing.
Goatfashion.com

ATEA


Grey dress £275 , blue jacket £750 , cream pants £275 , cream blazer £495

The low-down: Relaxed, easy-to-wear pieces that play with ideas of androgyny.
What makes this different from the rest? Atea’s focus is well-cut wardrobe building blocks that can be worn every day and to everything. All fabrics are sourced in New Zealand – origin of creative director Laura Myer – and colours are refreshingly muted.
What’s the damage? What they call “affordable luxury”. T-shirts in the softest modal jersey are £80, cotton shirt dresses £235. Tailoring is the priciest part, at £500 for a lined, double-breasted blazer.
Why you should know: Only in its second season, Atea is gaining a cult following. These classics won’t go out of fashion.
Bottom line: Simple, timeless and well-made.
AteaOceanie.com

DESA


Shoes, £99 , red bag, £299 , black bag, £259

The low-down: Good-sized leather bags made in the factories used by the designers.
What makes this different from the rest? Desa has stuck a balance between size, weight and price. The bags are fashion-led but aren’t painfully cool.
What’s the damage? Reasonable, for leather – £117 for a mini bag and go up to £529 for a large leather tote.
Why you should know: Set up in the Seventies, Desa has made bags for Marc Jacobs, McQueen and “premium French, English and Italian houses” for years.
Bottom line: The website’s photos do not do them justice, so go to one of the London stores.
Desa.uk.com

ME+EM

The low-down: Everyday basics that extend beyond skinny jeans and oversized jumpers – although they’re there too.
What makes this different from the rest? Although clearly put together by someone who keeps an eye on Céline and Givenchy, this is about easy, chic style that works at work and at the weekend, rather than one-season trends – and genuinely likes to keep it real. Clare Hornby (related to Nick Hornby), the founder and creative director, has a blog on the website in which she models looks.
What’s the damage? Nothing major. Block-coloured merino knits around £90, trousers £120, jackets £200 and the clothes are generally better quality than you’d expect at this price range.
What you should know: You may have stumbled across this website a few years ago when it was a “lounge-wear” range, selling upmarket jogging pants and wrap cardigans in modal and silky jersey. It’s come on a long way, but the comfort remains: this is effortless smart-casual dressing.
Bottom line: If you like modern, understated androgyny, you’ll like most of this. If you live near the Blairs in London, check out its first shop.
MeandEm.com

MADELEINE THOMPSON


Burgundy cashmere wrap, £340 , cream cashmere wrap, £365

The low-down: Cashmere that doesn’t look like it’s been festering in a golf club locker.
What makes this different from the rest? Cashmere snobs abound in these jumper-clad times, but Madeleine Thompson’s look cool and keep you warm. Her pieces come with a twist: boxy jumpers with a slit at the hem, arm-warmers in neon pink, draped cardigans with asymmetric hems.
What’s the damage? Cashmere this soft doesn’t come cheap. A neon beanie will set you back £95, a full-length silk-cashmere mix dress £370 (and the silk means it holds its shape). There are still sale bargains left.
What you should know: Hong Kong-born Thompson founded the line in 2008. Tamara Mellon saw her collection and bought the whole lot. Sienna Miller’s a fan.
The bottom line: Sophisticated loungewear that’s not just for the sofa.
Net-A-Porter.com

LOEFFLER RANDALL

The low-down: Eye-catching shoes that don’t cost the Earth. They’re comfy, too. Oh, and wonderful bags.
What makes this different from the rest? The price of shoes seems to have risen faster than that of London houses, but Loeffler Randal bucks the trend. Founder Jessie Randall makes them elegant but fun. Lots of British designers have the same idea; expect to pay twice the price for theirs.
What’s the damage? From around £100 for leather sandals. Court shoes and heeled sandals sit at £200, boots at £300-400.
Why you should know: Started in 2005, the brand has 200 retailers worldwide but is yet to crack Britain. Made in Brazil, their shoes are a step above US brands often found wanting in quality. Celebrities and numerous New York fashion editors swear by them.
Bottom line: Great for the office and black tie.
Loefflerrandall.com

BIMBA Y LOLA

The low-down: Another style hit from the Spanish, who seem to excel at affordable chic
What Makes This Different from the Rest? Excellent though Zara and Massimo Dutti are, Bimba y Lola has a more niche feel. That’s partly thanks to them only having two UK stores (so far), both of which have an unrushed, upmarket feel. The Notting Hill branch, with its dark wooden floors and airy green views is particularly luxe.
What’s the damage? Less than you’d imagine. A viscose crepe blouse costs around £65 (£52 in the sale); Tailored jackets, around £175 – this is upper end high street but with a niche approach.
What You Should Know : Founded by two sisters, this covers every base – from hats to shoes, casual to cocktail – and offers a huge choice. There are bags too, although these are somewhat marred by the logo. Stick with the clothes and belts. Minimalist or maximalist you’ll find what you want here.
Bottom Line: Look a million euros without spending anything like that. Savvy fashionistas line up – this won’t stay secret much longer.
Bimbaylola.com

STUDIO NICHOLSON

The low-down: If you like Margaret Howell, you’ll love Studio Nicholson.
What makes this different from the rest? A nonchalant cut in light fabrics; we like the softly tailored trousers, oversized wool T-shirts and cotton shirting. You can throw these on, knowing you look like you’ve given it some thought. Phoebe Philo has made this sartorial torpor her signature – Nicholson’s prices are more palatable.
What’s the damage? A panelled wool top is £240 (£120 in the sale); a fleeced wool car coat is £572 (now £286).
What you should know: Launched in 2010 by a menswear designer, Nick Wakeman, the designs are reworked from a masculine silhouette. They work better on taller women – curves and hips are less catered for.
The bottom line: Girls who like borrowing from the boys can add it to the list.
My-Wardrobe.com

HOUSE OF HACKNEY


Leopard dress, £245 , printed dress, £265

The low-down: Key traditional British basics but with the twist of East London cool.
What makes this different from the rest? House of Hackney’s focus is about being made in England and inspired by England, from British traditionalism to a youthful East London vibe. So from peony red prints to leopard print lilac, there’s an injection of cool in each standout, high-quality wardrobe essential.
What’s the damage? You can nab yourself a lovely little pencil skirt for just £165. Prices for chiffon dresses range from between £250-£355 and you’ll be able to pick up a cashmere jumper for around £245.
What you should know? The husband-wife design team began the company as an interiors label and the bold signature prints of the clothing are inspired by those used on their wallpapers, bed linen and furniture.
Bottom line: Be careful – once you’ve bought the clothes, you’ll want the wallpaper.
Houseofhackney.com

PERIDOT LONDON


Top, £295 , waistcoat £380 , skirt £380

The low-down: Basics you can get really quite excited about.
What makes this different from the rest? Founder, Rachel Wilson, begins each collection by picking a fabric and colour rather than starting with a theme. This adds to the excellent cut and feel of the final garment, making for excellently made and very unique staple pieces.
What’s the damage? Prices start at about £185 – for which you can pick up a white shirt – and get to around the £600 mark for a printed jumpsuit or wool coat.
What you should know?
Regardless of your personal style, garments are designed to be the key building blocks of any look, so embrace the versatility in these elegant staple items.
Bottom line: London through and through – with everything designed, cut and sampled in the brand’s Baker Street showroom.
Peridotlondon.co.uk

TIBI

The low-down: Defining the middle-ground between mass market and designer in a Manhattan cool manner.
What makes this different from the rest? Simple, modern and luxurious pieces but with a twist of unexpected colour combinations from candy blues to mint greens.
What’s the damage? A textured wool blend coat will set you back £773, but you can nab a jumper for £268 and will pay around £300-400 for a skirt or pair of trousers.
What you should know? Amy Smilovic began the line in 1997 with no formal fashion training, just a desperate need for clothing that did not exist. Inspired by dress-down Fridays in the office – finding the line between smart and casual, designer and high street – the label was born.
Bottom line: If Olivia Palermo, Leandra Medine and Hanneli Mustaparta are kitted out in Tibi, there’s no reason you shouldn’t want the whole collection hanging in your wardrobe.
Matchesfashion.com

PAPER LONDON


Coat, £695 , culottes, £265

The low-down: Bold colours, bold prints, bold silhouettes.
What makes this different from the rest? Clean sharp silhouettes, graphic bold prints and colours make for interesting, standout pieces that will make any wardrobe pop. Think a sharp navy coat with a bright yellow stripe down the back and finished off with fur.
What’s the damage? £295 for a bold knitted jumper, £325 for structured silk trousers, around the £400 mark for a dress and if you want a coat, you’re looking at spending £600 – £900.
What you should know? A relatively young label (started in 2011), it has made serious waves and been seen on the likes of Suki Waterhouse, Jennifer Lopez and even Pippa Middleton.
Bottom line: Wardrobe basics brought to life with a futuristic feel.
PaperLondon.com

CLAUDIE PIERLOT

The low-down: Timeless pieces, reinvented each season.
What makes this different from the rest? There’s a free and feminine feel to it. All are wardrobe essentials but finished with delicate prints like lace and mesh or reborn with a fun twist, for example, a sequined pencil skirt or a gold bomber jacket.
What’s the damage? Although you can pay up to £950 for a fur coat, prices tend to be pretty reasonable. Skirts, trousers and dresses sit between £150 – £300 and you can slip into a silk blouse for just £135.
What you should know? Claudie Pierlot is French and hails from the same brand as Sandro. The collection has an undoubtedly Parisian feel.
Bottom line: Your basics just got fun.

10 Best: Halloween beauty kits

Fashion

10 Best: Halloween Kits

From fake blood and batwing lashes to pumpkin-coloured lip gloss, here are the beauty essentials for your Halloween kit
Day Of The Dead Face Lace, from £29.95-£39.95

It looks complicated, but in fact these face stickers are the easiest way to sport Halloween make-up – just don’t work up too much of a sweat on dancefloor because your face may fall off – creepy

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Shu Uemura Gloss Unlimited in Orange shade 50, £18.50

Orange is in fact one of the most flattering colours we can wear – but knowing that most are too freaked out by bright hues, we thought we’d suggest a tangerine tone for Halloween to ease yourself in. Remember, this shade would double-up as a long-term lipstick investment

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Givenchy Ombre Couture Noir Sequin, £18

For haunting eyes go heavy on the liner, particularly below the bottom lashes. This one comes complete with the hint of a sparkle so it doubles up as a great party-piece, too

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Illamasqua Freak Eau De Parfum, from £34

With poison hemlock, black devana and opium flower, the ingredient list reads like a witch’s recipe. In fact the intoxicating blend, thanks too to added oud and myrrh, is a rather wonderful heady floral that makes for a super, sexy warm winter fragrance

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Laukrom’s Artificial Blood, £13.10

Water-based and easily removed, this gel blood is the easiest to work with, and scarily looks just like the real thing

10 Best: Halloween Kits

House of Holland False Nails Mental Monsters, £7.99

Stick-on nails without the trickery but all the cheating so you won’t have to dream up your own Halloween-themed nails

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Mistair Airlites Hair Art Colours (75ml), £13.25

In a rainbow of 28 colours in matte and pearlescent finishes, these wash-out colours are your cheat to switching up your colour for a night. You can also find stencils available if you’re going creative for Halloween

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Eylure Batwing Lashes, £6.95

Eylure, the UK’s best-selling lash brand, has created some brilliant Halloween themed lashes this year. Our favourites are these Batwing Lashes. We hear they’re reusable, but perhaps stick to Halloween-themed parties only

10 Best: Halloween Kits

ThumbsUp! Finger Candles, £10

For one night only sling out the Jo Malones and get these guys in to create just the right kind of Halloween ambience lighting

10 Best: Halloween Kits

Mistair mistFX Aqua Body Paints £12

Far better to use theatrical paints than make-up if you’re attempting any kind of body-art – and these come highly recommended for their water-based, smudge-proof, fool-proof fancy dress ease

The most spectacular catwalk shows

Fashion
image

Chanel’s annual Métiers d’Art show is due to take place in December in an 18th Century castle in Austria – a rococo palace called Schloss Leopoldskron which featured in The Sound of Music no less. Yes, we can always count on Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel to put on a good show.

READ: Chanel rides into Dallas

But what have been the most spectacular fashion spectacles in recent memory? Clue: they involve food, transportation, showmanship, nature and a just a touch of the supernatural to make sure they go off like clockwork.

A recipe for success

If Chanel made supermarkets… Oh right, it did, for autumn/winter 2014. And designer wire shopping baskets in three sizes.


Chanel AW/14

Great minds obviously thought alike because, in the same season, Anya Hindmarch created a catwalk in the guise of a giant barcode, on which models sported bags resembling our favourite cereal packets. Grrrrrrrreat.


Anya Hindmarch AW/14

Chanel’s Paris/Bombay show saw Paris’ Grand Palais transformed into a Maharaja’s banquetting hall complete with a miniature steam train that circumnavigated the central table.


Chanel Métiers d’Art 2011

Planes, trains, automobiles and, erm, bicycles

Staged in a venue built to resemble a gaint airliner; doors to manual has never looked so chic as for the Chanel spring/summer 2012 Haute Couture show, though admittedly some of the more distinguished front row guests were probably accustomed to additional leg room.


Chanel Haute Couture SS/12

Models alighting from the Louis Vuitton express for autumn/winter 2012 each had their own uniformed porter to carry their (Vuitton) luggage.


Louis Vuitton AW/12

Chanel’s Paris/Dallas rodeo-inspired show in 2013 featured a break-out space styled as an all-American drive-in screening The Return, a film about Coco Chanel directed by Mr Lagerfeld himself.


Chanel Métiers d’Art 2013

Alexander McQueen was a master of showmanship and back in the late Nineties he had model Shalom Harlow spinning on a revolving disc while she was doused in paint by two-industrial car spraying contraptions.


Alexander McQueen SS/99

We’re yet to be convinced that Anya Hindmarch and her bicycle was actually powering this 2012 animatronic show.


Anya Hindmarch AW/12

All the fun of the (fashion) fair

A minimalist and supremely stylish take on the garish funfair merry-go-round provided the perfect backdrop for Marc Jacob’s SS/12 collection for Louis Vuitton.


Louis Vuitton SS/12

Louis Vuitton’s tigers were taxidermy as opposed to the real thing but Marc Jacobs still made for a great ring-master in 2010.


Louis Vuitton SS/10

The Anya carousel was sectioned off into cardboard cutout rooms displaying the SS/13 Pomp and Pleasure collection alongside some naughty Georgian nobs frolicking in the bath tub.


Anya Hindmarch SS/13

Back to Nature

A Midsummer Night’s Dream met the summer of love at Dries van Noten for spring/summer 2015 with a tableau of nymphettes reclining on mossy carpet of a catwalk (which was actually a handwoven tapestry).


Dries van Noten SS/15

Raf Simons at Dior presented a garden of delights with a curtain of myriad-hued fronds suspended from above in 2013.


Dior SS/14

Kim Kardashian didn’t get to secure Versailles for her wedding, however, Karl managed it for his Resort 2013 collection.


Chanel Resort 2013

At Burberry’s Beijing spectacle, Christopher Bailey proved that making it rain wasn’t the only trick in his repetoire.


Burberry, Beijing 2011

Stylish ups and downs

At the end of Chanel’s SS/06 haute couture show, a staircase rose out of the runway with couture-clad models on every step.


Chanel Haute Couture SS/06

Models, including a smoking Kate Moss, (remember that?) emerged from an ornate old school elevator attended by peak-capped bellboys during Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2011 show.


Louis Vuitton AW/11

Going down: model pairs arrived in style at Vuitton’s SS/13 show via four specially appointed escalators.


Louis Vuitton SS/13

SEE: Louis Vuitton AW/11 in pictures

Anya Hindmarch collaborated with world champion domino expert Robin Weijers, and eight domino builders spent five days setting up some 66,000 dominoes all of which came tumbling down like clockwork on showday.


Anya Hindmarch AW/14

Angelina Jolie opts for British couture to collect honorary damehood

Fashion

The sober yet stylish bespoke dove grey suit by London-based Ralph & Russo was the perfect choice for Jolie to collect her honorary damehood from HM the Queen

BY Bibby Sowray | 10 October 2014

Angelina Jolie collects her honorary damehood from The Queen on October 10, 2014

Angelina Jolie collects her honorary damehood from The Queen on October 10, 2014 Photo: Getty

It must be one of the more nerve-wracking occasions to decide what to wear for, but Angelina Jolie made the perfect sartorial choice to collect her honorary damehood from the Queen this morning.

The actress and humanitarian opted for a dove grey skirt suit by British couture house Ralph & Russo to pick up the award for services to UK foreign policy and her campaigning to end sexual violence in war zones.

SEE: What they wore to Buckingham Palace

The wool crepe peplum jacket and pencil skirt with waist-cinching belt and silk chiffon bow neck tie was inspired by a tailored piece from the Ralph & Russo spring/summer 2014 couture collection. She accessorised with pearl earrings and peep-toe heels, with her hair styled in a chic chignon.


The actress at Buckingham Palace today. Photo: Getty

Jolie is a well known fan of the brand, which is helmed by Australian couple Tamara Ralph, the designer, and Michael Russo, CEO, but based in London. She has worn their designs for numerous high-profile occasions, as have celebrities including Beyoncé, for whom they have created custom stage costumes, and Cheryl Fernandez-Versini.


Jolie is presented with the insignia of an Honorary Dame Grand Cross of the Most Distinguished Order of St Michael and St George by The Queen. Photo: Getty

Last year Ralph & Russo, which was founded in 2007, became the first British brand in almost 100 years to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.


The spring/summer 2014 look that inspired Jolie’s suit

In June this year it was revealed that Phones4u founder John Caudwell has bought a minority stake in the flourishing fashion house after spotting its “endless potential”.


Angelina Jolie wearing Ralph & Russo. Photos: Rex

FOMO to no show at Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2015

Fashion

The closest he got to the latest collection from New York’s most influential designer was the sidewalk. So when our correspondent failed to do his job, he bodged together this sorry excuse for a review

BY Luke Leitch | 12 September 2014

Part of New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2015 Hot Topics

Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2015 collection

Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2015 collection Photo: Isidore Montag

The car was outrageously late and the city fiendishly gridlocked. And this show always starts bang on time. But whatever: when you’re in New York for the new collections there can be no excuse for missing Marc Jacobs.

Unfortunately by the time I huffed up to the venue the only people left outside were rubberneckers, policemen, and a roaming gang hell bent on giving away copies of T magazine . Inside, several hundred fashion editors were up the mountain, suffused in the latest looks of Jacobs, enjoying a hotline into the mind of US fashion’s most inventive maverick. Outside I was being counselled to ‘”keep walkin’, buddy” by a man-mountain in a peaked cap.

The show-goers who had been efficient enough to arrive on time started to emerge, so I scanned them for a friendly face. The first, a British magazine editor, was in a rush: “I can’t – I’m going straight to JFK! Black wigs. Stones on everything.” And on foam-soled leather sling-back sandals she sped ahead.

IN PICTURES: Celebrities at New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2015

Yes, getting to the airport, thanks: that’s why I’d booked the stupid car that turned up too late for me to get to this show on time. It was sitting around the corner with my suitcase in the boot, waiting to head on to the already-open-for-check-in BA flight home. But I had to know: how was the show?

Christina Binkley of the Wall Street Journal was in a hurry too, but she is a kindly soul: “We all wore Beats headphones and there was a musical soundtrack with a computerised narration. The shoes were fabulous and the bags were good.” And she slipped into the crowd.

Then Anna Dello Russo and Giovanna Battaglia took pity on me.

Dello Russo: “Ah – you missed it! The stage was a huge pink house. The clothes were all military.”

Battaglia: “Cargo pants, cargo dresses, cargo everything.”

Dello Russo: “No make-up. And the shoes were like Dr Scholl’s, in velvet.”

Battaglia: “Powerful – very couturish. For fashion soldiers.”

Dello Russo: “I want to wear the small dress with the big pockets in green. There were a lot of buttons, diamond buttons.”

Battaglia: “And the long, to-the-floor sweatshirt dresses with the embroidery – they were a big statement.”

The two muses moved on – just as Godfrey Deeney of Le Figaro bopped down the stairs in Berluti. “Military inspired pin-up girls – beautiful! Buttons everywhere hung like trapezes – it was the show, man! I’ve got get to the airport!”

Yes, yes, yes. But Jacobs is often the first precedent-setting show of the season. Who could provide a bit more detail? J.J. Martin, editor at large of Wallpaper* stepped up.

“Well, this show started at 6:01pm precisely. But you already know that, huh? It was remarkable, and not only for the enormous Pepto-Bismol house that was the stage, or the pink shaggy rug that surrounded it. This is the first fashion show I have been to where they handed out individual headphones for each guest – provided by Dr. Dre – so we each had our individual sound system. The voice was a bit of ramble, computerised, who was talking about what the models should and shouldn’t be doing backed by soothing violin music.

“The clothes were creative hybrids: dresses that spouted capes and cargo pants that turned into culottes. A lot of designers like to say they’ve reinvented something or other but today I have to say Marc did reinvent the cargo pant.

“Another take away is that maybe the biggest lesson Marc Jacobs learned at Vuitton is that accessories sell – because I have never seen so many handbags on the runway. They were so many of them and in such variation. One dress even came embedded with a handbag, an enlarged cargo pocket the size of a tote bag built into the dress.”

Good old JJ – what a pal. “And another thing. The number one takeaway. You need to arrive fifteen minutes early for a Marc Jacobs show. It’s the only show in the universe that demands this. And I don’t want to point out any of your deficiencies, but today you kind of missed the ball on that one, huh?”

“Excuse me,” I replied, “but I really must get to the airport.”

All photos by Isidore Montag

BFI London Film Festival 2014: red carpet style

Fashion

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British actress Keira Knightley stole the show on the second night of the BFI London Film Festival

Keira Knightley wowed the crowds in a rainy Leicester Square in a tiered Valentino gown to attend the premiere of her new film, ‘The Imitation Game’

imageEarlier in the day Knightley attended a photocall for ‘The Imitation Game’ in a pleated Valentino gown
imageFrench actress Olga Kurylenko put on a tropical show in Matthew Williamson at the opening gala
imageSassy red stiletto sandals spruced up model Daisy Lowe’s Saint Laurent Le Smoking suit on the inaugral night
imageBudding British actress Clara Paget cut a sleek figure with extra sheer and sparkle detailing
imageShoe designer Charlotte Dellal channelled her signature old Hollywood style on the opening night
imageGames of Thrones star Natalie Dormer eschewed the ‘dress’ code and plumped for a slick black suit
imageAmerican swimwear designer Melissa Odabash found herself on the opening gala guest list
imageGwendoline Christie was a tasselled vision at the IWC Schaffhausen dinner
imageA punchy blue Dior number ensured actress Bonnie Wright didn’t fade into the crowds
imageJust peachy was actress Emily Blunt at the opening party
imageBritish model and new mother Erin O’Connor took a vivid, scarlet turn in Roksanda at the IWC gala dinner in honour of the BFI
imageBritish models Charlotte Wiggins and Sam Rollinson (in a Saint Laurent party dress) cut fashionable figures on the opening night at the IWC gala dinner

Halloween costume ideas

Fashion

Fancy yourself as Wednesday Addams, Carrie or Natalie Portman’s Black Swan this Halloween? Here’s how to do horror in style…

BY Alice Newbold | 08 October 2014

Chloe Moretz as Carrie

Chloe Moretz as Carrie Photo: Rex

Wednesday Addams
Pale, plaited youngster Wednesday Addams is obsessed with death and the macabre. Though her deadpan wit is optional Wednesday’s morbid school girl style is easy to replicate. Pop a sharp white collar on a dark long-sleeved dress and keep everything else a complete black out.

Shop Wednesday’s style:

Therapy White Collar Lace Sleeve Dress, £55, House of Fraser; Troopa SM boots, £90, Steve Maddon for Dune; Rich liquid foundation in pure white, £30, Illamasqua; 60 Denier Velvet Touch Opaque Tights, £8, Autograph at Marks and Spencer; Black hair powder, £28, Bumble and Bumble at LookFantastic.com

IN PICTURES: Best celebrity Halloween costumes

Catwoman
Michelle Pfeiffer, Halle Berry and Anne Hathaway have all moonlighted as sassy fictional superhero Catwoman in recent years, but it’s Lee Meriwether’s Sixties siren that captured our imagination. With a shiny second-skin suit, bandit style mask and cat ears, there’s something wonderfully DIY and easy to copy about her feline façade.

Get the Catwoman look:

Clockwise from top left: Vinyle front ponte leggings, £25, Topshop; Turtle Neck Long Sleeve T-Shirt, £7.90, Uniqlo; Leather gloves, £298.51, Gucci at FarFetch.com; Skinny Full Metal Waist Belt, £20, ASOS; Lace and satin cat ear headband, £410, Maison Scotch at Net-a-Porter; Sequin Venetian Masquerade, £1.35, Amazon; Margot patent boots, £75, Topshop

Black Swan
Nina Sayers, aka Natalie Portman’s psychologically unstable Swan Queen, has been high on Halloween costume lists since the 2010 release of Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan. Note to revellers attempting the look on All Hallow’s Eve: fit in some serious squat sessions before donning that tutu.

How to channel your inner ballerina:

Clockwise from top left: Morgan Bustier Top With Glitter Detailing, £25, House of Fraser; Belle tutu skirt, £44.95, Bloch; Jewelled Statement Tiara, £14, Claire’s Accessories; Beauroque lace, £20.95, Face Lace; Mehron Paradise body art set, £5.95, Beauty Chamber; Mineralize rich lipstick in Dreaminess, £20, MAC

WATCH: How to get the perfect Halloween Day of The Dead make-up

Carrie
Chloe Moretz’s recent interpretation of Sissy Spacek’s tormented character Carrie, from the 1976 supernatural horror film that takes the protagonist’s name, means a resurgence of blood-soaked costumes. Prepare for a messy dressing-up session.

Get Carrie’s gory look:

Clockwise from top left: Floral Lace Long Nightdress, £20-£35, Marks and Spencer; Bloodymarvelous Thick Liquid Blood Dark Venemous 30ml, £6, Screen Face; Make-Up International Splatter Blood 50ml, £5.95, Screen Face; Screenface Congealed Blood 30ml, £9.95, Screen Face

Velma Dinkley
“My glasses! I can’t see without my glasses!” Scooby-Doo’s nerdy gang member, Velma, might always solve the mystery, but she’s got zero fashion sense. Her tangy orange knits and thick-rimmed glasses are an easy Halloween win; just remember her favourite goofy expression: “jinkies!”

Velma’s geek edit:

Clockwise from top left: Retro Chunky Geek Glasses, £6, Claire’s Accessories; Family sock in carrot orange, £7.50, Falke; Kraft A5 notebook with ruled pages, £3, Paperchase; Wool-blend mini skirt, £260, Neil Barrett at Net-a-Porter; Designer dark purple leather block heel mary jane shoes, £32, RJR.John Rocha at Debenhams; Designer orange chunky roll neck jumper, £52, Preen/Edition at Debenhams

See more Halloween fashion ideas