THAT Zoolander moment, a host of new creative director names to contend with, the models that made the most impact and the front rows that were the most frenzied – the autumn/winter 2015 season was packed full of fashion moments, talking points and new-season trends. Here, we round up our highlights.
Seventies Out, Eighties In
Miu MiuIt began with JW Anderson, who wiped the Seventies slate clean. Power shoulders, Lurex, the boots, the fringing, Human League playing out the models. Suddenly the Seventies – the decade we’d been seduced by and revelling in last season – felt old. Saint Laurent indulged the decade in more of a Cyndi Lauper “Girls Wanna Have Fun” way for tulle prom skirts and asymmetric necklines; we of course saw JW continue the trend with his Loewe collection as well; and we saw it all cemented Princess Di-style at Miu Miu for frilled sailor bib dresses and a mix of modern-day punks and Sloanes.
There were simply too many Instagram moments but it was Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson reprising their Zoolanderroles that undoubtedly stole the show – and fashion week highlights – at Valentino. After a procession of the label’s elegant and serene dresses, out they came to make for a great surprise finale. Prior to that we’d had the Chanel brasserie (complete with waiters and models hanging out and catching up over a cuppa), Kenzo’s moving catwalk, accompanied by a performance from Saint Etienne; Comme des Garcons’ serene model confrontations mid-catwalk; Elie Saab’s forest; MaxMara and Sportmax’s video screens; and Kanye’s Adidas collection installation among them. This season, the shows were all about snapping – the clothes, the catwalk and beyond.
The Front Row Frenzy
LanvinKim and Kanye, again. This time it was the former’s hairstyle change that caused havoc amid the front row of Balmain where it made its debut. Jared Leto was obviously in a similar frame of mind, unleashing his blonde locks onto the (fashion) world too. Blonde ambition ruled.
The Shoe Story
ChanelThere were so, so many shoes on offer this season to contend for our hearts (the black boots at Saint Laurent, Valentino and Louis Vuitton; Miu Miu’s Mary Jane hybrids). But it was the clever idea at Chanel to show just one style on 97 catwalk outings that made the most impact: a sling-back version of its classic pump, with the addition of a square-blocked heel. Top of our shoe shopping list next season.
Who’s That Girl
MaxMaraInsta-girl Gigi Hadid was everywhere this season, smouldering her way down the catwalk, most notably at MaxMara where she had the ultimate blonde bombshell moment and became a modern-day Marilyn Monroe.
Tweed’s New Take
Haider AckermannWe’re used to seeing it at Chanel, of course, but this season tweed got taken to new extremes and to new houses: Simone Rocha, Sacai, MaxMara, Haider Ackermann, Dior, Erdem, Prada and Margaret Howell were among those who argued its case for being autumn/winter 2015’s fabric of choice.
The Dance of the New Creative Directors
GucciFashion continued to play its game of musical chairs when it came to creative directors – it was a fully-packed season of new names to know, the most prominent of which was Alessandro Michele at Gucci in Milan. The verdict was a thumbs-up – a new era at the label defined by an aristo-romanticism. Catch up on who else went where here.
FendiFendi, Alexander Wang, Chanel, Moschino, Hermes, Burberry and H&M all had a soft touch for the new season, making quilting – be it crafty at Burberry, punctuated with jewels at Chanel or like all-enveloping duvets at Fendi – quite the appealing option, in both practical and pretty renditions.
All Made Up
GivenchyRiccardo Tisci took his inspiration from the Chola girl gangs in South America for one of the most captivating beauty looks – braids in hair and face jewellery that spanned jangling nose rings, cheek piercings and dramatic ear decoration.
The Street Style
After last season’s trainer-off (were you a Chanel or Dior trophy trainer kind of girl?), the street style set’s over-saturation of the practical and sporty flat meant heels were back in fashion and on feet once more. RIP your Stan Smith’s and hello vertiginous heights.